How to Write a Snag List for New Builds

What Is a Snag List and Why Does It Matter?

A snag list is a record of defects, unfinished work, or poor-quality finishes in a newly built property. Every new-build has snags — it's simply the nature of construction. The question is whether they get identified and fixed before the homeowner moves in, or whether they become a long-running headache afterwards.

Whether you're a builder doing your own quality checks, a site manager preparing for handover, or a homebuyer inspecting your new home, a thorough snag list protects everyone involved.

When to Do a Snagging Inspection

Ideally: Before legal completion, during a pre-completion inspection. This gives the developer time to fix issues before you move in.

In practice: Many developers won't allow access until after completion. In that case, carry out your snagging inspection as soon as you get the keys — ideally on the same day.

Key deadlines to know:

• NHBC Buildmark covers defects reported within 2 years of completion
• Most developer warranties require you to report snags within the first 12 months
• Structural defects are typically covered for 10 years under warranty

Don't rush through it. A proper snagging inspection takes 2–4 hours for a typical 3-bed house.

What You'll Need

• A good torch (for checking under units, in loft spaces, behind downpipes)
• A spirit level (minimum 1200mm)
• A tape measure
• A socket tester (plug-in type for checking wiring)
• A step ladder
• Your phone for photos
• A clipboard or tablet for notes

Room-by-Room Snagging Checklist

Kitchen

• [ ] Worktops level, properly joined, sealed at wall edges
• [ ] All units doors and drawers open, close, and align properly
• [ ] Hinges adjusted — no sagging doors
• [ ] Plinth fitted tightly with no gaps
• [ ] Splashback sealed at worktop and wall junctions
• [ ] Sink sealed around the rim — no gaps
• [ ] Taps run hot and cold, no drips when turned off
• [ ] Waste drains quickly with no leaks underneath
• [ ] Extractor fan works and vents to outside (not into the loft)
• [ ] All appliances present and working as per specification
• [ ] Socket and switch plates straight, flush to wall, no gaps

Bathroom and En-Suite

• [ ] Toilet flushes properly, fills quietly, no rocking
• [ ] Basin taps work, waste drains freely
• [ ] Shower runs at good pressure, screen doesn't leak
• [ ] Bath fills and drains — check underneath for leaks via the access panel
• [ ] All silicone seals neat and complete (bath-to-wall, shower tray, basin)
• [ ] Tiles level, grouting complete, no cracked or chipped tiles
• [ ] Extractor fan operates (check it runs on a timer, not just with the light)
• [ ] Heated towel rail heats up
• [ ] Mirror fixings secure

Bedrooms

• [ ] Doors open and close smoothly, latches catch properly
• [ ] Handles firmly fixed
• [ ] Window opens, closes, and locks — check restrictors work
• [ ] Window seals intact, no daylight visible around frames
• [ ] Walls and ceilings — check for nail pops, cracks, uneven plaster
• [ ] Paintwork even — look at walls from an angle in good light
• [ ] Skirting boards tightly fitted, mitres closed
• [ ] Carpet/flooring laid flat with no bumps, properly trimmed at edges
• [ ] Radiator heats up, TRV works, no leaks at valves
• [ ] Sockets and light switches work, plates are straight

Living Room / Dining Room

• [ ] Same wall, ceiling, floor checks as bedrooms
• [ ] TV/media points present as per specification
• [ ] Fireplace (if fitted) — surround level, hearth intact
• [ ] French/patio doors operate smoothly, lock and seal properly
• [ ] Threshold trim fitted at door transitions

Hallway and Stairs

• [ ] Front door lock operates smoothly — all keys work
• [ ] Staircase solid — no creaking treads (some movement is normal, excessive creaking is a snag)
• [ ] Handrail secure, balusters/spindles firm (grab each one and check)
• [ ] Under-stairs cupboard — check plaster finish, any exposed services properly clipped
• [ ] Smoke and heat detectors fitted and working (press test button)
• [ ] Loft hatch opens, sits flush, insulation visible in loft

Exterior

• [ ] Brickwork — mortar joints consistent, no cracked bricks, weep holes clear
• [ ] Render — no cracks, even finish
• [ ] Gutters and downpipes aligned, brackets secure, joints sealed
• [ ] Drainage — check gully covers sit properly, water drains away from the building
• [ ] Driveway — surface even, no loose blocks, edgings secure
• [ ] Fencing fitted plumb, gravel boards in place
• [ ] Paths and patios — falls away from the house, no ponding areas
• [ ] External taps work (if specified)
• [ ] Meter box doors close properly

Garage

• [ ] Door opens and closes (check auto-opener if fitted)
• [ ] Floor level, properly finished
• [ ] Power sockets and light work
• [ ] Fire door to house (if applicable) — self-closing, properly sealed

The Most Common Snags

Based on thousands of inspections across the industry, these are the defects that come up time and again:

| Snag | How Common | Severity | |-----|-----------|---------| | Poor paintwork (runs, missed spots, roller marks) | Very common | Cosmetic | | Unfinished or poor silicone sealing | Very common | Can cause water damage | | Nail pops in plasterboard ceilings | Common | Cosmetic | | Poorly fitted skirting (gaps at mitres) | Common | Cosmetic | | Windows not adjusted properly | Common | Can affect security/weatherproofing | | Kitchen unit doors misaligned | Common | Cosmetic | | External brickwork mortar staining | Fairly common | Cosmetic | | Drainage falls incorrect | Less common | Functional — can cause ponding | | Missing loft insulation | Less common | Building regs compliance |

How to Record and Present Your Snags

Be systematic. For each snag, record:

1. Location — room and specific position (e.g., "Master bedroom, wall adjacent to en-suite door")
2. Description — what the defect is (e.g., "Plaster crack approximately 300mm long running from corner of window to ceiling")
3. Photo — take a clear photograph with context
4. Suggested remedy — helpful but not essential

Use the Snag List tool to create a professional, structured snagging report you can send straight to the developer or site manager.

Presenting to the Developer

• Submit your snag list in writing — email is fine, but keep a copy
• Be factual, not emotional. "Silicone seal missing between bath and wall tiles" works better than "Bath area is a mess"
• Give a reasonable timeframe — 28 days for cosmetic items, immediate for anything safety-related
• If the developer is unresponsive, escalate to the warranty provider (NHBC, Premier Guarantee, LABC, etc.)

Professional Snagger vs DIY

Professional snagging inspectors typically charge £300–£500 for a standard house. You can find qualified inspectors through the RICS directory. They'll produce a detailed report with photos and often catch things a homeowner might miss — particularly technical issues like incorrect boiler pressures, missing cavity trays, or inadequate ventilation.

DIY snagging is perfectly valid if you're thorough. Use this checklist, take your time, and don't be afraid to flag something even if you're not sure — the developer can investigate.

For builders and site managers: Running your own snagging inspection before handover is the best way to avoid callbacks and protect your reputation. A clean handover is worth more than any marketing. Two hours with a checklist saves weeks of going back and forth.

Final Thought

Every new-build has snags. The good developers fix them quickly. The mark of a quality builder isn't a zero-snag list — it's how fast and how well the snags get resolved.